Travel off the beaten path sometimes means visiting places that can only be reached by other means. On a beautiful, wandering adventure through the Inside Passage along the eastern shore of Vancouver Island in British Columbia, one such experience was found on a tiny island in the south end of Johnstone Strait.
Reachable only by small boat, this densely wooded island with rocky shores looks rather unassuming from a distance. A glimpse of a tower tucked in the trees at the edge of a cliff is the only clue that something unusual might be found there.
Yorke Island is strategically located in a section of the Inside Passage that must be passed if one is sailing from the north to Vancouver. It was determined in 1938 that this rocky island would be an ideal location for fortifications to protect Vancouver from any “backdoor” attacks by sea. It was a difficult site, with no natural drinking water sources and long periods of isolation for the personnel stationed there. Water was brought in by tanker from nearby Hardwicke Island. The men who lived in the island garrison were faced with a lack of action and minimal outside contact, which resulted in disciplinary problems with some conscripts described as having “gone yorkie”. The fort and garrison were decommissioned by 1946 as the threat of invasion waned and the site was abandoned.
Landing by zodiac on the small beach visitors are welcomed by a sign marking the trailhead before heading uphill into the forest. I did not know quite what to expect, but being no stranger to decaying military infrastructure, I knew that it would be an interesting hike.
One of the first structures encountered was little more than a shell, with moss-edged windows framing a view of the trees and surrounding mountains. The island has been protected as a conservancy by BC Parks, with volunteers providing cleanup and trail maintenance. The buildings however are left to decay, weathered by the elements and the regrowth of the lush coastal forest environment.
Some places offer the opportunity to experience a profound sense of “after” and Yorke Island was certainly rich with this sensation. I have explored many abandoned sites and photographed examples of urban decay, but the way in which so many of the man-made structures were being consumed by moss and ferns was uniquely beautiful.
In some spots it was difficult to discern the hulking concrete structures, revealed only by the punctuating angular shapes of rusting orange metal components.
Inside the locations for the gun emplacements rings of bolts remained in the circular rooms, while overhead the lacy fronts of ferns created peaceful green skylights in the rusting roof.
It was very quiet on the island, our small group thoughtfully exploring the empty rooms and underground passages. A soft breeze came up from the water, rustling tree branches as birds sang from the bushes. The juxtaposition of the rough, purpose-built structures of war against a backdrop of serene natural beauty was a pleasant reminder that nature abides.
Bright pink salmon berry flowers were in bloom throughout the forest undergrowth, and where larger trees had fallen or been cut down, young saplings grew from their stumps.
It was a unique experience to be so immersed in a place that bears both the marks of wartime activity and nature’s relentless regrowth. Every broken window framed a lush forest view, every brick wall was blanketed in large patches of green moss.
Even down in the underground tunnels, sunlight found a way to illuminate the passages, punctuated by the swaying shadows of the trees as they filtered across the rough concrete walls.
Places like Yorke Island provide valuable opportunities to connect with the idea that the world goes on even after we have made our mark. I enjoy the imprint of time on such a place, where even concrete and steel can be rendered temporary as the green growth of a vibrant forest ecosystem reclaims the site. If you ever have the chance to step into a space that is going through this process, you will find that there is always a kind of unexpected beauty in the decay as it becomes something new.
To see more of my photo from Yorke Island, British Columbia you can visit my archives here. Prints and licensing available upon request.
